Oil, garlic and anchovies: these are the basic ingredients of bagna cauda (also known as “bagna caoda”), one of the symbols of Piedmontese cuisine.
This sauce, in fact, is the ideal condiment for vegetables, so much so that it is not by chance that we speak of a hot variant of the pinzimonio typical of the spring and summer seasons.
Its history has its roots in the medieval period and deserves to be deepened and known, also because we are not talking about a simple sauce, but a real ritual. The Middle Ages is the time when this sauce was introduced for the first time.
It was a custom of the Piedmontese peasants who needed to protect themselves from the winter cold: the main evidence locates the birth of bagna cauda in the areas of Asti, Monferrato and Langhe, just in the places where the owners of the vineyards used to celebrate new wines with vegetables and this hot sauce, a real poor dish.
On the contrary, the noblest classes did not particularly like the recipe, due to the excessive presence of garlic. Many centuries have passed since those years, but still today it is customary to consume the sauce sitting around the table, with an earthenware container that keeps the temperature high. At this point doubt may arise. How is it possible that one of Piedmont’s main recipes is based on anchovies, given that the region is landlocked?
The explanation is simple.
In the Middle Ages there were obviously no fishermen in the northern region, but the anchovies were, since salt was very expensive and from the mountains you could follow the roads leading to Liguria to buy it at lower prices. The salt was then hidden inside barrels and covered with anchovies.
The fish was then sold at very competitive prices: the contact with salt made them tastier, as well as prolonging the conservation.